Like most journalist I too had come out with photo stories earlier to my fellowship but the one we started once a week in the Bhopal Edition of the Hindustan Times was very satisfying as a fotog, and which also made me put into practice the knowledge I had learned from very senior American photographers during my fellowship.
As new launch newspapers who have a lot of space to fill the easy way out for the desk is to fill it with images and so the photographers come in demand during these not so often situation. But I have been very lucky that way, since the start of my career with the City Tab for a year or so, and then later with the Times of India’s Bangalore Edition in 1987 to 1993, the paper had a whole lot of space to fill and so I got the encouragement I needed to go out get anything that will run into the newsprint with a snappy caption to correlate with the picture.
So what you get to see are the scanned copies of some of the photo stories which I had worked on in Bhopal and published in the Hindustan Times – Bhopal edition.
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The first of the Photo Story was on the gates of Bhopal which was in a dilapidated condition, and so after a lot of deliberation between the Resident Editor, Bureau Chief and me this theme was to lead our weekly package. This theme was decided so that we could wake the citizens as well as the city officials to start conserving them before they came down on their heads.
The readers notice read: A photo feature will appear in this space every Wednesday. It will narrate a story on an aspect of Bhopal’s life and times via visuals. For its inaugural edition, we thought it would be a good idea to carry something which epitomizes Bhopal. Hence the gates (and archways). Happy viewing!
MUTE VICTIMS OF NEGLECT
In the era gone by, the town of Bhopal was dotted with huge gates and archways. The gates were entrances to the walled city and the archways led into palace complexes like Taj Mahal, Benazir, Moti Mahal and Sadar Manzil.They witnessed battles, rebellions, coronations, marriage processions of the royalties, ceremonial welcomes to the state guests and other such grand occasions.
Most of the entrances to the town, like Ginnori Gate, Peer Gate, Imami Gate, Budhwara Gate, Mangalwara Gate and Itwara Gate were obliterated to create spaces (they no longer exist).
However, some survived the mindless attempts to broaden roads and streets. Jumerati Gate, one of the entrances to the walled city, survived miraculously and was repaired a few years back. The archways near Sadar Manzil, Kaala Darwaza, Islami Gate, Benazir, some around Taj Mahal and a gate of the Fatehgarh Fortress in Hamidia Hospital premises are among the few left to tell the stories of the past. Hindustan Times lensman S Shiv Kumar captured some of the remaining gates and archways.
THE BAWRIS OF BHOPAL
Centuries ago, a poet of yore advised those with altruistic inclinations: Pul bana, Chaah bana, Masjid-O-Talaab bana. (Build bridges water-wells mosques and ponds).The rulers and the pious (and the occasional combination of the two!) followed the advice. Actually, they went a step further and built step-wells (bawris) too. These bridges, wells, places of worship, ponds and lakes are still providing relief to the people.
Among these constructions, which dotted the country, were the bawris. To call them merely ‘step-wells’ is an understatement. These quaint constructions did much more than merely provide water to people. During hot weather they became a retreat for people, as balconies were carved out of the wells’ walls on all four sides. Here people took refuge during afternoons to enjoy a cool siesta with families and friends.
Bawris were preferred over the tehkhanas (basements) because they were always open and provided ample fresh air. They were constructed with elaborate care with beautifully carved arches and rooms inside. No air-conditioners or coolers were needed there.
At least ten of these bawris have survived the ravages of time in Bhopal. A visit to them opens a window to the past. Some are still in a good condition but others have unfortunately been neglected. Some bawris have fallen into private hands (like the one near Aish Bagh) where the crew of a TV channel was recently bashed up. There is still time to preserve this legacy of the past.
BHOPAL'S MORNING LIFE
Bhopal makes up for its lack of night life by the early morning activities. While you are tucked in the warmth of your blanket at dawn, half of the city is up and kicking. By the time sun’s rays hit the city (around 5 am), all its major walks face a traffic jam. Homo sapiens of all varieties – young and old, tall and short, thin and fat can be seen perambulating. And, by 9 am, the remaining half of Bhopal’s populace is revving. Except the oddballs, of course.One can spot the flower pickers (for pooja) as also who laugh their lungs out at the laughter club adjoining Shapura lake. The earliest to hit the job tracks are the fishermen who leave their house between 4 to 5 am, to serve the city’s fishy people. The newspapers vendors and the milkmen (with their water jugs) follow on their heels. For the bargain seekers, early morning is ‘the’ time to land at the sabzi mandi.
Around the same time, children get thrown out of their beds by their mothers … The otherwise impossible to wade Hamidia road wears a curfew look (but for the sweepers).
It is reporting time on the job for the beggars, in particular for those with the plum outside – the temple postings. The city’s by lanes are by now filled with the smell of Poha Jalebi, its favoured breakfast.
The recent drinking water crisis has converted many in Bhopal to be forced as early risers. Let’s hope the habit stays on. After all, early to rise … makes a person healthy, wealthy and wise.
BHOPAL'S WATER CRISES
For the past couple of years Bhopal has been facing water shortage, particularly during summers. This year, the scenario is even worse. What has brought it about? What can be done about it? In the short and long term?The concrete jungle that has come up has virtually blocked the surface flow to the lake. Besides, the tube wells dug over the years have lowered the groundwater level. In any case Bhopal’s water resources were not meant for a city of this size. As the city is bound to grow there is no chance of the problem abetting. So something will have to be done about it. Water from Narmada is still a far cry, if at all.
Hence in the short term we will have to manage the present resources better. Ground water recharging could be taken up, but some reports say that it pollutes the water. Harvesting rainwater from the rooftops could be another way. These and some other steps could be taken in the short term. For the long term, a perspective action plan for the city’s water needs will have to be drawn. More than these, it is an attitudinal change that is needed.
However, none of these will work without public participation the problem cannot be tackled. An aggressive and sustained awareness campaign will have to be launched – at once. Else, the citizens of Bhopal will have to accept watered down quality of life.
BITTAN BY 'HAAT'
The Haats are symbolic of the process of Sanskritisation … They are the carry overs when villages grow into towns … Have a culture of their own … The bargaining, noise, smell and the informality make up for a heady experience.
For roughly a quarter century now, people living in and around Bittan market have not worried about fresh vegetables. The secret – a travelling vegetable and fruit market – the Haat – comes to their doorsteps thrice a week (Monday, Thursday and Saturday). The Bittan Haat is a treasurehouse of vegetables, fruits, spices, sickles, clothes and what have you. The Haats are circulating markets which derive their name from the station of the day. Hence the name – Bittan market for those three days. The prices too vary according to the economic station of the people of the area. Thus, if Bhindi costs Rs. 20. a kg at Bittan market, at Nehru Nagar it would cost Rs.16.The stall owners come from all parts of the city and beyond- Sehore, Berasia, Neelbad, Karod, Misrod, Naya Basera- to name a few. While some just about make their ends meet, others are quite happy with their lot. Shabbir Khan from Baag Sevania, a spice stall vendor in one such person. He says ‘I make a lot of money and that’s why I do not want to put up a regular shop’.
Likewise, Mahesh (who hails from old Bhopal and sells chicken at all the Haats in Bhopal) when asked about the criterion for varying the pice smiles and says ‘it is a trade secret’. Occasionally an elephant strolls at the end of the day collecting sundry gifts from the vendors and passing on them to the mahout. Tea vendors too have a field day supplying ‘cut tea’ at regular intervals to the vendors, at times even in absentia. They end up raking 200 bucks on an average day. The petromax suppliers are another species to inhabit these Haats. (A dozen of them supply lamps at Rs 15 per night).
Saleem, a fish stall owner cites the quality of the produce as the USP of Bittan. He adds on with a smile, ‘However hard the politicians try to divide people on the basis of caste, religion and creed, we at the Haat move on like one family.’ Says a seasoned Bittan visitor ‘it is definitely cheaper than the open market and you get everything fresh.’ Haven’t you been Bittan yet?
BHOPAL'S NIGHT LIFE
To many, Bhopal’s night life is a contradiction of terms. According to them, no such thing exists. (For, they equate night life with glamorous and /or sleazy stuff). There is some element of truth in this. Compared to the cities of its size (even Indore). Bhopal hardly has any activity post prime time TV. In fact, by late evening the city resembles an overgrown village. However, there is more to night life than merely that.As darkness sets in, the city presents a different picture. If for the majority it’s time to jump into a cozy bed or to play with the TV remote control buttons, there are many others who turn nocturnal to keep the city ticking. Our photographer and correspondent vroomed into the streets and past the landmarks of the city to capture the night’s spirit. Barring a few stray dogs, Bhopal’s night showed no signs of life. As for the ghosts, they inhabit the select areas like the VIP Road. MP Nagar and Jyoti railway under-bridge (according to sources). When our team tried to contact them, they stonewalled saying they do not speak to the press. The idea of the story was to catch the various shades of Bhopal’s night. For which our team zipped roughly from dusk to dawn. The results are hereby displayed.
BHOPAL'S FISHY BUSINESS
“Fishing is not easy as it appears to be”, says Gore Lal a fisherman with 16 children 6 grandchildren, and, of course, two wives.” When asked is it sufficient for such a huge family, he laughs and replies “I just about manage to survive, by god’s grace.”These fishermen who start the day as early as 4.00am, strain all their muscles till 12 noon, and find solace in the company of a quarter (Pauwa) bottle of liquor, (and good fried fish to go with it.) In the evening Kalu a fisherman from Beta Gaon (on the edge of the upper lake towards Bairagarh), says “We get so tired and the water in the lake being filthy, our full body starts to itch in the evening, so we have a pauwa and sleep like a baby”.
Most of the fishermen are from a select few communities like the KAr, Batham, Raikwar, Manjhi and Nishad, (all Hindus). Bhagwan Das a fisherman of the lower lake sys that it is because of the job crunch that some of their children who have completed their 10th standard and a few who are graduates, too join the family business.
With the BMC leasing out the fishing business to private contractors, these 500 odd fishermen have been forced to make do with a meager sum of rupees 6 to 8 a KG of fish caught by them in the lake.
Fishermen throughout the city are peeved at the way their society is treated by the BMC and the State Government.
“What can we do say’s a fisherman, we all are uneducated and the BMC and the Government has fooled us, by saying that we will be paid more. Earlier, they made at least rupees 100 or more a day, while not the contractors pay only up to rupees 60 per fisherman.
BHOPAL'S WILDLIFE SPOT
In a way wild animals are our reference points. Bhopal has one such spot – the Van Vihar National Park – right in its heart. Situated on the South-West part of the City, perhaps Van Vihar is the only National Park which is situated in the heart of a city and is open around the year. Spread over 400 hectares, it is a microcosm of Madhya Pradesh’s wildlife. Tigers, Lions, Leopards, Cheetals, Barasinghas (the state animal of MP), Bears, Wild Boar and a host of other animals can be seen in their natural environs and a visitor can get to have a close encounter with them. Another significant part of the Van Vihar is the spacious separate enclosures for the carnivorous species. White tiger lends a special charm to it. According to the range officer of Van Vihar Shankar Jangle, a novel experiment was recently carried out here wherein a white tiger was given live bait. The white tigers across the world are in captivity and have almost lost the habit to kill. In this case it was interesting to see it return to its natural instincts. The Van Vihar authorities also help to trap monkeys which create nuisance in Bhopal. In order to promote awareness about wildlife, the forest authorities have set up a shop in Van Vihar selling T-shirts. So, if you have not been to this patch of paradise in southwest Bhopal, do so now.
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